Food Escape to Calgary: Day 2

Of course my favorite type of meal - brunch - had to be eaten in a diner. I settled in the end on Galaxie Diner (1411 11 Street SW), located just outside of the downtown core.

Galaxie Diner exterior

Walking up to the front door, it didn't look good - the line up actually spilled onto the sidewalk. Thankfully, our wait was just under half an hour, and wasn't unpleasant in the warm spring sunshine. We had time to peer in the window of the restaurant next door - Palace of Eats - which turned out to be owned and operated by the purveyors of Galaxie.

The number of seats in Galaxie are few - 6 booths and a handful of seats along the counter, but with fast, efficient, and friendly service, it's no surprise that patrons are willing to wait.

Galaxie interior

Mack enjoying his first coffee of the day

While Diner Deluxe and Avenue Diner can be considered more upscale, Galaxie Diner doesn't pretend to be anything other than a good old neighbourhood greasy spoon. A variety of menu items including omelettes, eggs benedicts, French toast and a parfait meant most tastes would be satisfied. I decided to order the Montreal Smoked Meat Omelette ($11.75), while Mack customized his Omelette of Choice with mushrooms, ham, and cheese ($11.75). Both were served with unlimited hashbrowns and toast.

Our seat at the counter provided the perfect vantage point of the stove and the two cooks behind it. One had perfected cracking an egg with one hand, and both juggled multiple orders on the same griddle with ease.

Hot on the grill

I almost wish I had a scale to weigh my plate before digging in - the serving was absolutely massive. The omelette was the heartiest I've ever had - the Montreal Smoked Meat was more flavourful than ham, but less dense than bacon, and really helped make an otherwise standard breakfast option "pop."

Montreal Smoked Meat Omelette

The goodies inside my omelette

Mack's custom omelette

Inside Mack's omelette

With the bill, we were given two Dubble Bubbles - another reminder of the restaurant's retro feel and fun.

Bubble gum!

My next planned stop was the Calgary Farmer's Market. Though we had the address, we did not have a detailed map that would help lead us there. Luckily, Mack's iPod picked up an unsecured wireless signal, and we were saved.

iPod to the rescue! (No, I am not affiliated with Apple in any way.)

Located in an old airport hangar, I was surprised at the sheer size of the market - it is at least twice the size of Old Strathcona's, if not more.

Market exterior

Market interior

With over eighty merchants selling everything from handmade crafts, flowers, sweets, preserves, seafood, beef, and of course, produce, this market offers most of the essentials sold at a supermarket. What surprised me about the produce was the availability of imported vegetables - tomatoes from Mexico, plantains and garlic from the U.S., fruit from New Zealand. This is in stark contrast to the focus of Edmonton's farmer's markets (and the ideal focus, in my opinion) on locally-grown products. Mack thought this variety could be attributed to the need to cater to the customer - attract them to the market with the atmosphere and unique items, but offer them what they would buy elsewhere.

Produce!

Pet treats

Buttercream Bake Shoppe outpost

Hi Sebastian!

The main reason for our visit was to sample Phil & Sebastian Coffee. Their coffee and their Clover have a cult following in Calgary, and who were we to question the crowd?

Phil & Sebastian Coffee kiosk

The line-up

The Clover

The price for an individually-brewed cup of coffee was not listed on the overhead menu, so we weren't sure what we were getting ourselves into. It turns out, it wasn't so bad - the Ethiopian-sourced cup of coffee was $3.50.

As we waited for our order, we chatted with the barista. He extolled the virtue of single-origin coffee, and we talked a bit about Edmonton's Transcend and Kerstin's Chocolates. More than the coffee itself, the passion exuded by the staff for their products made the trip here worthwhile. He even asked us to sniff the beans - twice - after they were ground by the machine.

Design also seems to be a Phil & Sebastian strength - their sleek cups and simple but memorable logo help foster the ideal that Starbucks began - that a cup of coffee can offer the illusion of a better life. Printed on the sleeves:

"We could write on the side of our cups about how we're nothing like the other guys. We could tell you about the pride we take in every drink we serve. We could write about the contents of this cup being hot, and that you should use caution. We could tell you that Phil's dad can run faster than your dad. We could write about our goal to raise your expectations of coffee. Or maybe, we could write on the side of our cups that you should probably stop reading this because your drink is getting cold. Enjoy."

The barista told us to wait a bit before giving it a try (though it would have been impossible to do so if we wanted to - the coffee was scorching hot). The fruity tones were evident in the coffee's aroma, but wasn't noticeable in the drink itself. Mack noted that it tasted rich but not burnt, but in the end, I'm not sure I could identify a Clover-brewed coffee in a blind taste test. We're hoping to head to Transcend this weekend to see what Edmonton has to offer.

"I have coffee and you don't."

Chinook Centre was our final stop, since Mack was itching to go shopping and spend his wealth of gift cards. The obligatory stop at the nice and roomy RW & Co. yielded no treasures, but Mack did end up picking up something from Old Navy, so the visit wasn't fruitless.

On our way back to Edmonton, we stopped in Red Deer to have dinner with Tom and Bry at Boston Pizza. The waitress was obviously new, or not very good at multitasking, but it gave us time to catch up. Mack and I ordered the poutine, and I hoped that it would be better than the time before, but no, the gravy was just as lukewarm. But food aside, it was a good meal.

From my last few trips down to Calgary, I think I've finally been able to get past the elementary "must hate the city of the Flames" mentality. Not only do they have great restaurants, but the arts scene is more active than I could have ever imagined. Who knew?

The rest of my pictures can be seen on Flickr.

Food Escape to Calgary: Day 1

Being Dine-Out week, as well as what I wanted to optimistically deem a spring thaw, Mack and I decided to head to Calgary this weekend to expand our culinary borders.

After the half-day ETS Community Conference wrapped up, we headed to McDonald’s for some road trip sustenance. Thankfully, fast food wouldn’t set the tone for our food consumption over the next two days, but I will admit to enjoying my Quarter Pounder with Cheese (who knew two slices of processed cheese made such a difference?).

Quarter Pounder, Big Mac and lots of fries

We thought the road conditions would be poor, given that driving within the city was a slush-fest that morning, but the highway was in better shape than we expected, and so we made good time.

I had decided upon the Westin for our accommodations, based on a good experience I had last summer (albeit in the fancy, renovated Business Tower), and the deal they were offering while I was comparison shopping. When we arrived, however, the second impression wasn’t positive. It was past 4pm (keeping in mind that the check-out time was noon), and we were told that our room still had to be cleaned, with a wait of at least forty-five minutes. Opting for fresh air instead of idling in the lounge, we walked over to the nearby Prince’s Island Park.

Though there was still quite a bit of snow to be found on the riverbanks, there were a surprising number of ducks and geese near the water and in the park as a whole. More than that, these animals were so used to people (or are still carrying their winter weight) that they couldn’t be bothered to move away when we approached.

Duck, duck, goose

Geese!

Out on a stroll

River Café, nestled in Prince’s Island Park (was on my short list of Dine Out options, but would be a more appropriate choice in the summer, surrounded by trees in full color)

Why wear a cowboy hat when you can swing on one?

When we made it back to the hotel, we were pleased to find out that we had been upgraded to the Business Tower. Complimentary amenities included long-distance calls to anywhere in North America, wireless internet, Starbucks coffee, and a $21 breakfast credit for the in-house restaurant.

Mack lounging

I had planned a walkable itinerary for Saturday, so we headed for Stephen Avenue on foot. With some time to kill before our reservation, we ended up wandering around Rand McNally Bookstore. From their name, I thought they were only in the business of textbooks, but I was wrong. With wooden floors, a cozy cafe on the third level, and a children's area that reminded me of the one in You've Got Mail's fictional Fox Books, it would be a nice escape from the bustle of Stephen Avenue in the summer.

Rand McNally Bookstore interior

Promptly at 6pm, to Blink Restaurant & Bar (111 8th Avenue SW) we went. I posted about Blink Supper Club in May of last year, with a note that their revamped menu was boosting business somewhat. I guess it wasn't enough, as the original owners sold out, and the "club-by-night" concept gave way to a restaurant in its pure form. Out of my shortlist of Dine Out restaurants, Blink had the most interesting menu as well as a location conducive for the rest of the plan that evening.

Blink exterior

Upon entry, we were greeted by dramatic floor-to-ceiling length curtains, and then a friendly hostess, in that order. Like many a restaurant in Toronto, the dining room was narrow, but deep, lined with banquets, exposed brick, and dark wood. A wine case cleverly hid the DJ's platform and turnstiles, though one wonders if they will bother keeping this fixture at all. Before she seated us, the hostess asked if we were here for the Dine Out promotion, and offered us both the special and regular menus as a matter of courtesy (take that, Ric's Grill). The $35 pre-fixe included our choice of appetizer, entree, and dessert from a list of three in each category. Naturally, Mack and I chose completely different dishes to allow for a larger sample size.

Blink interior

Dine Out menu

My puree of squash varietals (with honey and preserves lemon creme fraiche) was divine - not hot enough for my liking, but was finely strained yet thick enough to be substantial. Sweet with just a hint of lemon, it ended up being the best of my three courses. Perhaps it set too high of a bar, as the rest of the dishes were underwhelming. Mack enjoyed his heirloom beets (a pink and orange variety usually not seen) dressed in an orange vinaigrette, but probably would have been satisfied with an entire plate of their creamy, fresh goat cheese alone.

Puree of squash varietals

Heirloom beets

Since being "denied" risotto in Italy, I have been on a quest to find the next best risotto in North America. But after Blink, I think I'm done - while great as a side, as a touch of savoury to a fish course, for example, I find I'm always looking for a bit of protein substance to follow the rice. Unfortunately with Blink's version as well, my serving had not been continuously stirred, and as a result, the grains were inconsistent - some plump with stock, others still uncooked and crunchy. And though my self-imposed food critic demands had me ordering something other than what Mack had chosen, I should have gone with my gut and opted for the arctic char instead. Mack loved the fish - lighter than salmon, crisp and flavourful, it was both filling and satisfying. I thought the breaded and fried potato galette was the best part though - it was creamy, carb-y, and smooth on the inside.

Risotto of organic mushrooms

Land locked arctic char

For dessert, I couldn't pass up the vanilla creme brulee, though I still haven't found a restaurant that can duplicate the creme brulee I had on a cruise a few years ago. The cruise version spoiled me to expect a thin layer of custard, easily warmed through by a freshly torched surface. Blink's brulee wasn't bad - flavoured by real vanilla bean, it was definitely a dessert to savour. Mack didn't enjoy his sticky pudding with butterscotch as much; it was too rich for his taste.

Vanilla creme brulee

Sticky pudding with butterscotch

The experience as a whole at Blink was great - attentive service, a refined atmosphere, and an elegant setting, I would recommend it for those looking for a higher end downtown dining destination. I am a bit disappointed that I wasn't able to see the transformation of the room into a club, however - I guess I will have to head east for that.

After dinner, we headed to the most tourist-oriented part of our weekend: the Calgary Tower. Why? I had a coupon (heh), and though I had seen the view from the top during the day, the panoramic night display would be new to me.

Going up in a plywood elevator (what would people who are afraid of heights think?)

It turns out it really isn't anything special. Olympic Plaza looked nice lit from above, and the glass floor provided a momentary distraction, but other than that, we stayed just long enough to get our psychological money's worth.

Glass floor

At the top

The next stop was a free outdoor Glenbow Museum exhibit on Darfur. From the website:

"DARFUR/DARFUR is a provocative photography exhibit that will be projected onto Glenbow Museum's walls facing Stephen Avenue and 1st St. S.E. from March 14 to 21, 2008. Over 170 colour and black-and-white images by seven internationally acclaimed photojournalists and one former U.S. Marine will bring into focus the landscape, the culture and the people that are currently under attack in the Darfur region in western Sudan."

I had a vision that the photographs would be projected on street-level walls, and if we hadn't heard a music cue, I wouldn't have even thought to look up. The use of space and the idea of hypothetically exposing people out in public to the atrocities in Darfur are interesting, but standing outside on a random downtown street, the exhibit wasn't as effective as it could have been.

DARFUR/DARFUR exhibit

Our last photo opportunity (as neither of us had skates) was Olympic Plaza. It was quite picturesque, especially with the lone skater on the pond, but when the snow, out of nowhere, started funnelling out of the sky, the bleak visibility forced us to turn back to the hotel.

Olympic Plaza

Us

New York City: Day 7

After leaving our luggage with the Pod Hotel staff, we walked to Bar Americain, one of Bobby Flay's three New York restaurants. Before Becco, before S'MAC, before any of the places I researched when it was decided that we were coming to New York, I knew I wanted to have brunch "with" Bobby Flay. In particular, I wanted to have a biscuit at one of his establishments - those of you who have seen him make one on Iron Chef America will know why.

We had some time to kill before our 11:30am reservation, so we loitered near Times Square for a while.

"Mack in the City"

"Pass the Cheer," I say

Mack disagrees

I wasn't sure what I was expecting the outside of Bar Americain to look like, but when we arrived, I can tell you I wasn't impressed. Red awnings alongside a non-descript business building? I expected more from you, Bobby Flay.

Outside Bar Americain

Once inside, we were greeted by the restaurant's host and swiftly brought to our table. The interior is exactly as pictured in the website - a mile-high ceiling, an impressive mirror-backed bar, and immaculate white linens. I have written in the past about my very narrow definition of the atmosphere that makes a good brunch, and although the dining room was grand, I can't help but think such formality and scale would have worked better for a nice dinner as opposed to a weekend breakfast.

The bar

Mack

Showing off the menu

I had known for weeks what I wanted to order (Miss Stephanie's Biscuits & Cream Gravy, Artisanal Ham, Sausage & Scrambled Eggs), while Mack decided on the Open-Face Omelette with Fire-Roasted Peppers, Wild Mushrooms, Goat Cheese and Parsley.

Unfortunately, we found that the service wasn't as attentive as what we had received at either Becco and Gramercy Tavern. Mack also wasn't floored at the fact that his orange juice was priced at $4.50 per glass (but then again, we did find out that juice in New York was expensive, period).

The food - Mack's omelette was essentially a baked egg dish with a fancy name, while mine was presented exactly as advertised. The biscuit was the best thing on the plate - crispy on the outside and soft and warm on the inside. The gravy was rich, and not a bad garnish on the creamy eggs, but I could have done without the meats. The ham was much too salty, and the sausage patties were tough and chewy, a result of being overcooked.

Mack's Omelette

Miss Stephanie's fixings (my assumption is that the "Stephanie" referenced is his wife, as she loves his buttermilk biscuits)

I can't say that I was wholly disappointed in my experience at Bar Americain, but it didn't quite live up to my (admittedly high) expectations. I would go back, but probably for lunch or dinner instead.

We took the "scenic route" back to our hotel - partly because we had some time but also partly because we didn't want to leave.

Radio City Music Hall (there were always masses of people around the building; even when there wasn't a show on)

Mack being silly

The Waldorf...one more time

We decided in the end to take a taxi to LaGuardia (or "shady town car" as arranged for us by the hotel staff), which made the end of our trip transfer as efficient as our arrival. Besides a slight delay in Ottawa, we made it back to Edmonton without any trouble whatsoever.

In documenting my trip to New York, I have had time to think about not only what we were able to see, but to take note of what we didn't. This exercise has brought me to the realization that we left so much untouched that I can't quite say that we did the city justice (if one assumes that a tourist can ever really "know" a city well enough to make adequate judgments). In that regard, I see the potential of so much more of the city to discover that a return trip is not only desired, but necessary.

E.B. White, in an essay titled "Here is New York", writes, "New York is nothing like Paris; it is nothing like London; and it is not Spokane multiplied by sixty, or Detroit multiplied by four. It is by all odds the loftiest of cities." I have no other words.