Optimistically Cautious

Friday, December 08, 2006

Not My Cup of Tea: Mikado Restaurant

As any restaurateur is well aware, lunch is the best way to more inexpensively sample an eatery's fare. So although I am not a fan of Japanese food, I thought I'd give the southside Mikado (1903-98 Street) a shot this afternoon with my Mum.

I have to admit to being impressed by their decor. Designed to reflect a simple elegance, the dark wood and leather furniture, accented by cream-colored square and geometric lanterns aspired to offer Asian cuisine within a Western framework and expectations. Fronting the kitchen lay a full-service sushi bar, with uniformed chefs visibly at work. The waitresses too were costumed, complete with satin kimonos and tatami sandals. Non-descript flute and piano-heavy instrumentals streamed from the speakers.

In addition to regular tables and booths, patrons also had the option of renting private rooms. Before we left, my Mum and I asked for a brief tour, which they willingly obliged to. I must confess the kitschy part of me was enthused at the idea of eating at a low table, seated on the floor in a traditional manner. But that's to buy into cookie-cutter culture, right?

We had heard that Mikado served lunch specials, but when questioned about these, the waitress merely pointed to the menu she had given us, and said that the specials were the Bento Boxes, priced lower than they would be at dinner. Balking at the idea of eating sushi, I settled on the Beef Teriyaki (beef slices, vegetable stir fry, rice), while my Mum decided on the A-1 Bento Box (sushi, sashimi, mix tempura, chicken teriyaki, salad, rice).

While we waited for our food, we enjoyed several cups of brown rice tea. Stronger than the jasmine tea they typically serve in Chinese restaurants, we marveled later on at how hot the brew stayed throughout our meal in the seemingly magically-insulated plastic teapot.

My Mum's order came rather quickly, although I had to wait at least another five minutes for my own dish to arrive. Needless to say, for the price ($12.95), she wasn't floored with her Bento Box. She said she much preferred the version available at Banzai (4608 Calgary Trail).

As for the Beef Teriyaki - to begin with, I was expecting a larger portion for $12.95. Although the beef itself was tender, the slices were bathed in oil, whereas I was hoping for more teriyaki sauce. The chopped cabbage, carrots, and broccolli were fine, but lacked pizzazz. And like my Mum, I knew of a better deal sold elsewhere - the Tokyo Express beef bowl.

Yes, I acknowledge that the higher prices paid at Mikado are for the atmosphere, but personally, I favor the dine and dash variety of Japanese cuisine offered at Tokyo Express.

Sushi bar

Booths

Cup and teapot

Bento Box

Beef Teriyaki

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