Coffee Oasis: Marcello's

Beckoning through the glass and beyond the courtyard of Telus Plaza was the mysterious Marcello’s (10025 Jasper Ave, Unit #63).

I’ve been meaning to go for months since seeing what looked like an independent coffee shop across the way from my morning Second Cup, and now, having been, I wonder why I didn’t make the trek over sooner.

Marcello's, it turns out, bills itself as a "market & deli", has locations in six cities in Canada, and offers much more than just coffee. With a self-serve hot breakfast station featuring scrambled eggs, sausages, and home fries, a plethora of freshly-baked muffins, and a convenience store selection of dried cereals and sweet treats, even picky eaters would not go hungry.

As for coffee - count me amazed - Marcello's serves no less than two dozen varieties of coffee every day, with more than a handful of flavoured varieties (my personal favorite). At $1.50 for a medium, it is also slightly cheaper than a similar-sized jolt at Second Cup.

Look to Marcello's when you're short on change, want more coffee options than Second Cup has to offer, and desire to avoid jostling for space and seats in the nearby Starbucks.

Marcello's in Telus Plaza

Hot breakfast options

Muffins galore

Coffee, coffee and more coffee!

Fresh and Friendly: Da Capo Cafe

I had a quick coffee at Da Capo Caffe (8738-109 Street) over the summer, but I had always been meaning to go back to give their menu a try. An opportunity came up on Wednesday evening to do so.

While I'm still not sure that I like the design of the cafe, I understand the reasoning behind it. The dining area is essentially split in half by the substantially-sized staff/food preparation area smack in the middle of the cafe. This does allow for two lines - one for espressos and another for food, but in my opinion this division creates a lack of harmony in the seating space.

At any rate, I approached a staff member with the simple question of "What is there to eat?" He led me to a chalkboard menu on the other side of the counter, listing a dozen or so pizzas, calzones and salads in the $10-15 range. I did a quick scan of my options, and chose the Margherita ($10.50, including tax). A patron next to me in line ordered the black truffle-prosciutto-parmesan variety without hesitation, which the server noted was his own favorite, so I may have to return in the future to try a more adventurous topping combination. A note on payment - cash is the only means accepted, so like Leva, you have to be prepared.

I took a seat on one of the stools facing the windows looking out onto 109 Street (I find the rest of the space much too dim), and was immediately brought my requested glass of water. The wait was tempered by a free weekly I had picked up on the way, and half-way through the paper, my pizza arrived. The server wasn't kidding when he said the pizza was ideal for sharing - it was huge! The sauce was reminiscent of the sweet tomato base used by Famoso, nice and light, but the best part of the pizza was by far the crust. Addictively crunchy, I would have gladly consumed an entire plate of breadsticks made from the bread alone. And though it hit the spot that day, I would pick Leva's version if forced to choose.

Still, with great service and interesting menu items, I wouldn't hesitate to return to Da Capo.

Margherita Pizza

Transcend Coffee

I'm a little torn on whether or not I should even write a review on our visit to Transcend Coffee (9869 62 Avenue), consistently lauded in the media and by local foodies for their approach to coffee. Granted, we had huge expectations, particularly after our sojourn to Calgary's Phil & Sebastian's, for an equally fantastic experience. But I'm sad to say that Transcend didn't live up to the hype.

Surrounded by industrial buildings and warehouses, we weren't sure what the inside of Transcend would look like. Turns out, they probably ended up choosing the off-the-beaten-path location more for cheap rent than anything else, as they had two whole floors to themselves, with the main floor divided into a retail front space with limited seating and a coffee "laboratory" and roasting area in a separate room in the back.

Count me as surprised when I spotted a Clover on the counter...I guess we didn't have to head south after all to test out fresh French-pressed coffee. Anyway, I approached the barista with this open question, which in hindsight, probably wasn't the right way to start off a conversation: "We're new. Can you provide us with an introduction?" She probed us for our usual coffee preferences, and after telling her that we wanted a lighter brew, she recommended the Ethiopia Yirgacheffe. We ordered two regular Clover-brewed cups, which came to $5.

Though I understand that not every independent cafe employee is as outgoing and passionate as the one we encountered at Phil & Sebastian's, it is difficult not to directly compare the two. Transcend's barista really wasn't chatty, and as we surveyed the room, it seemed to us that the Transcend crowd was made up entirely of regulars. That morning anyway, we felt like the odd patrons out.

After an abbreviated wait, we were given two filled coffee-press vessels and two Bodum double-walled glasses. We headed to the second floor to access their additional seating area, and found that we had the room to ourselves. While quiet, the furnishings had us thinking we had infiltrated someone's home office and living room - between the desk and open files on one side, a mishmash of furniture, and a television in the corner, we didn't feel as "at home" as we were supposed to.

Our coffee had a light brown hue to it, almost the color it takes on after the addition of milk. It was thin, and to me, had acidic notes to it, though Mack disagreed with that assertion. He remarked about its lack of an aftertaste, but we both noted that it probably wasn't the type meant to provide that morning jolt - we were ready for more after finishing our cups. After my second brush with Clover-brewed coffee, I'm starting to question whether or not it does make a difference, at least to me. I hope the coffee tasting Mack and I are planning to attend later this spring will shed some light on specialty beans and brewing processes.

Perhaps Phil & Sebastian's spoiled me, or perhaps I shouldn't be looking for an "experience" at a cafe, but there has to be something (like the people and the passion behind the coffee) that sets the independents apart from the Starbucks and Second Cups of the world.

Exterior

At the bar

Second floor seating area

Our coffees

Holiday Vantage Point: Three Bananas Cafe

Needing a quick bite to eat downtown, and not in the mood to jostle with the Friday night food court crowd, I was pulled towards the reliably quiet Three Bananas Cafe on Churchill Square.

Several months have passed since I last stopped by, but not much had changed about the place. As I mentioned in my previous post, however, the cafe is a tad on the dim side in the evenings, with only a few ill-placed spot bulbs overhead. Surveying all available tables, only two were bright enough to allow for comfortable reading. I was lucky to snag one, and thumbed through a free weekly while waiting for my Traditional (pepperoni and mushroom) Pizzette. Not exactly cheap at $8.95, I figured I was paying more for the venue and the view - great for people watching in the summer, the windows are an even better vantage point in the winter, opening up to the BrightNights displays on the east side of Churchill Square.

My pizza required a wait of about fifteen minutes, but arrived hot and very cheesy. It wasn't as good as I remembered, but considering the last one was consumed as I was moving back to solid foods upon recovery from my wisdom teeth extraction, a less than fantastic second trial was to be expected.

If you're around the Square to take in the holiday decorations, why not stop by Three Bananas for a warming mug of hot chocolate?

Traditional Pizzette

Brought to you by Sugar: Vi's for Pies

In an effort to kill two birds in one night, May and I followed up on a new restaurant with dessert at a cafe we had both been meaning to visit for some time - Vi's for Pies (13408 Stony Plain Road).

Not too far from our next and last destination, we had just enough time to ogle the dessert case and have something to round off our meal. There were at least fifteen tempting selections to choose from, including various cheesecakes, tarts, cakes, and pies. May could not resist trying their mango cheesecake, while I opted for a lemon tart and a hot chocolate. But beyond sweets, Vi's also serves homemade soups and sandwiches,and instead of the traditional paper menu, display their daily creations on a chalkboard and easel moved to accomodate patrons still deciding.

While we waited for our plates, we admired the cute outdoor patio (it reminded me of the location of Carrie's simu-date in an episode of Sex & the City), and is definitely worth checking out in warmer seasons. The dining area itself wasn't too shabby either, featuring a fireplace and walls painted in a warm red tone.

Our desserts were ready in no time, and we were both pleased with the presentation - little florets of whipped cream dusted with cocoa accented the plate. When we sampled our treats, however, we found them much too sweet for our liking. The lemon essence in my tart was much too strong; the shortbread base wasn't bad, but the overpowering tartness of lemon flavor prevented me from enjoying my dessert as a whole. This pattern of saccharin saturation was also continued in my drink, unfortunately.

I would return to Vi's for Pies in the future, but only to sample their hearty lunch/dinner options...or perhaps their pie.

Vi's for Pies

Outdoor patio

May admires the dessert case

May's mango cheesecake (top) and my lemon tarts

Notes on Food

• Mr. Mike's Steakhouse & Bar is now open in West Edmonton Mall! Strange I haven't really seen it mentioned in any of the local papers.
  


• Bettina pointed out a unique alternative to flowers and candy - Edible Arrangements! While they may not last as long as a bouquet, they are certainly beautiful to look at. They are on the pricey side, but I'd be open to taking the idea and making up single-stem pineapple/melon flowers myself. They'd be perfect as takeaway gifts to give following a baby shower or spring dinner party.
  


• Original Fare has introduced gift cards! Valid at 17 independent Edmonton-area restaurants, I can't think of a better present for your epicurean friends.
  


• Starbucks has been promoting a campaign of culinary coffee pairings, going the route of wine. Though I like the education aspect of it, it's also a clever way to try and upsell their pastries. I did sample the Chocolate Cinnamon Bread the other day (though with tea and not alongside the recommended coffee), and it was surprisingly bland. Perhaps I'll eat it with its "other half" next time.
  


• Also on Starbucks - did anyone notice how quickly the stores cycled through their drinks this summer? From Raspberry to Orange to Blueberry Frappuccinos and Iced Teas, and now to their Fall Pumpkin Spiced Latte...I felt it was a bit too much, too soon, going against their marketed ideal for the summer of relaxing and just enjoying life.
  


• I stopped by Essence Organic Tea Bar (10011 102 Ave) on Friday, and had their Java Lat-tea (I will admit the pun made me smile). It's actually better than a very similar drink I had at Blendz in Vancouver, and though perhaps mainly psychological, it felt healthier than a cup of joe. I hope their business picks up - it was completely empty during my visit.

Many Happy Returns: Leva Cappuccino Bar

I was on the hunt for a good panini sandwich today, and remembered Leva (11053 86 Avenue). As I was heading to the nearby Jubilee Auditorium later that evening anyway, it was a convenient stopover.

I ordered the 4 cheese and roasted tomato panini, which came served with a lovely vegetable salad dressed with a sweet and sour balsamic vinaigrette. The sandwich was nicely toasted, and the cheese satisfyingly melted.

This was only my second visit to the cafe, but I love Leva's vibe. The choice of classic soul tunes created an upbeat and easygoing atmosphere, and the service has been friendly and helpful. A bonus for me - their selection of cooking and entertaining magazines are a source of welcome distraction for me. Who needs a free daily when you've got Donna Hay?

My only complaint is their cash-only policy. Though they have an in-house ATM, it's hard not to see it as an underhanded cash cow; not only do they not have to pay debit machine and credit card charges, but they also get to collect wayward ATM transaction fees on top of that.

Despite that, I still readily recommend Leva - for their food, coffee, and gelato - but make sure you've got some cash on hand.

4 cheese panini

Retro Chic: Leva Capuccino Bar

Since our failed attempt to try them back in December, I've been itching to visit the newly-renovated Leva Capuccino Bar (11053 86 Avenue). So on a windy Friday, Bettina and I ventured back in the direction of the University campus.

It turns out their grand re-opening took place on March 24, and in addition to renovations, they also revamped their menu. As this was my first time at Leva, I'm not sure what it looked like prior to its facelift, but I can say that the new space is very chic. With a clean black and white color scheme, accented with orange chairs and fabulous crystal chandeliers, it has a younger, but similar vibe to Caffè Sorrentino. The order counter (save the LCD panels), is designed with a 70s touch, anchoring the cafe with a retro feel. Also of note is their selection of food magazines, including Gourmet Traveller and Donna Hay - definitely not your average coffee shop collection!

In addition to the baked goods and artisan gelato, Leva also offers several salads, panini sandwiches, and pizzas. Never being able to pass up a good Margherita, I gave it a try. Made to order, the pizza was great (and better than the one I had at Earls a few weeks ago), in large part due to the light and crispy crust. The creamy bocconcini cheese was a delicious alternative to the more commonly used mozzarella, and really served to make this pizza special. My accompanying iced coffee was just that, but included just the right amount of added sweetener, cutting through the usual bitterness associated with the drink.

Just a short walk from the University, Leva is worth a try if you're in the area.

Cafe exterior

Interior

Order counter

Margherita Pizza

Bettina's treats (of which I sampled as well - the blueberry ricotta tart was the best of the three)

Food Notes

• I tried the "new" Chicken Snack Wrap at McDonald's for the first time yesterday, and much to my disappointment, it wasn't very good. My dislike of ranch sauce may have contributed to my overall negative opinion, but really, given the choice, I'd have a bacon(!) cheeseburger any day.

• While on campus last week, I headed to Edmonton's first Good Earth Coffeehouse and Bakery (8623-112 Street), a Calgary mainstay. Located in Campus Towers, occupying the old Second Cup/Great Canadian Bagel space, I was floored at the complete overhaul of the decor. With new flooring, painted walls, and sturdy wooden furniture (the old metal chairs were a deterrent to hour-long study sessions), I'm sure Good Earth will become a student favorite soon enough. The downside - the prices definitely reflect the more upscale design. As I mentioned in early March, I had read that their scones were quite good, so I bought a mixed berry one to try. It rang up to $2.75. Though it wasn't bad (the consistency was sweeter and tasted more cakey than a traditional scone), it definitely wasn't worth three dollars. I didn't have time to take a picture to do the new space justice, but this will have to do for now:

• After brunch on Sunday, Bettina and I ducked into Culina's neighbour, Wild Earth Bakery (8902-99 Street), for a quick dessert. More of a coffee shop than a full-service bakery like Bee Bell or Cobbs, their pastry selection wasn't too extensive. We decided to each try a small tart - blueberry for me while Bettina opted for the pecan version. Preserved in a cooler, it would have tasted better at room temperature. We didn't end up staying too long, but it seemed like a nice alternative for those looking beyond mainstream coffee chains.

• I'd love to start an indoor herb garden. Since I started cooking with fresh herbs, I realized how expensive they are. For example, to make a traditional pesto, I'd need at least 3 cups of basil. Mack and I picked up a 40g container of basil at the Italian Centre for our pizza the other day for $2.40. Similarly, even with the packaged herb sale at Sobey's this week, I'd easily spend over $10 for enough fresh dill called upon in a cheddar-dill scone recipe I'm interested in making. Who knew cooking could actually end up being pricier than eating out?
  
  
• The outdoor City Market reopens in the downtown core in less than three weeks on May 19! This means the return of fresh produce, mini doughnuts and popcorn, and my favorite Whimsical Cupcakes on Saturday mornings. There's nothing better than brunch at Blue Plate Diner followed by a stroll at the farmer's market. Be sure to check it out!