Optimistically Cautious

Monday, December 11, 2006

Unremarkable and Without Identity: Kelsey's

My friend and I went to Kelsey's (3203 Calgary Trail Southbound) on the southside for dinner last night. We wanted to go someplace casual, and Kelsey's was a compromise between my pick (Blue Plate Diner), and his (Earl's).

Kelsey's is part of the Cara Family of food services, which also includes Second Cup, Milestone's, Swiss Chalet and Harvey's. This was my first time in this particular chain, and when asked to describe it, my friend remarked that the restaurants have a remarkable resemblance to Boston Pizza. After eating there, I would have to agree. But whereas, for example, Homefire Grill had an apparent identity crisis, Kelsey's simply has no identity.

The main difference between the two (besides Howie Mandel's overly obnoxious television spots) is that Kelsey's' "your neighbourhood bar & grill" tag automatically gears it towards adults, while BP's "you're among friends" is more all-around family friendly. My assessment is also supported by the decor in Kelsey's. Dark, and not as well-lit and inviting as the neon-colored, Hollywood-postered Boston Pizza, it evoked a lethargic atmosphere more suited to twenty-four hour operations like Denny's. This particular location seemed to showcase its lounge as well, as the main door opened up to reveal an elevated bar, flanked by two separate, smaller dining rooms on either side.

The menu had the requisite new-age salads, pastas, sandwiches, and grill items that are par for a casual dining course. I will say, however, that their "complete classic meal" was quite a steal - an appetizer, entree, and dessert for a few dollars more than the regular price of a main. I couldn't pass up such a deal, so I ordered the Balsamic Chicken (two boneless chicken breasts marinated in garlic and spices, grilled and topped with a balsamic garlic cream sauce, served with garlic-mashed potatoes and vegetables), and a cup of broccoli cheddar soup to start. My friend opted for the build-your-own Chicken Fajita.

Our food arrived after an abbreviated delay, served by a waitress that reminded me of Kristin Chenoweth, all kinds of bubbly and grown-woman cute. My friend's fajita came with much fanfare - a large platter containing, among other things, a sizzling plate of sautéed onions, bell peppers, and chicken. Four tortilla wraps didn't seem like enough, but my friend didn't complain. My soup was better than average; it was nice to see the serving topped off with fresh cheddar. On the other hand, the chicken was nothing to write home about, especially now that I've experienced 4th and Vine's fabulous hazelnut garlic rub. The potatoes were a little on the runny side, and though the vegetables were good, steamed zucchini and broccoli shouldn't be the best part of an entree.

We split my last course - the chocolate marshmallow truffle (chocolate truffle with marshmallows on a cookie crumb crust with white and dark chocolate, topped with real whipped cream). It's a shame I was still sick, because the combination of truffle, crushed cookie, mini marshmallows, chocolate sauce and whipped cream was a Goldilocks dessert - not too sweet, but just right.

It's hard to know if I'll be back at Kelsey's, because I was left with absolutely no lasting impression. It would be difficult to recall this restaurant in times of hunger.

Restaurant interior

Chicken fajita

Broccoli cheddar soup

Balsamic chicken

Chocolate marshmallow truffle

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